Garden Tips

Q. After raking up my leaves, can I use them as a mulch around my perennials and roses?

A. It is generally a bad idea to use leaves as mulch unless they have been finely shredded. Leaves retain too much water and provide great conditions in which diseases will flourish. In fact, if you use leaves that are already diseased (with botrytis or apple scab, for example), you will be perpetuating the disease for next year. It is best to get rid of all diseased leaves and compost the rest. As compost, leaves are great, this way they are known as leaf mold.

Q. I understand you are a founder of the business "Peter The English Gardener Ltd." How did you come up with the unique name of your company?

A. When I decided to start the business several years ago, I was looking for a name that would need no explanation of what the company did so I decided to just decided to say it the way it was. Being English, and the company specializing in gardening! It was a no brainer.

Q. I moved many of my house plants outside this summer, and they've done fabulously! I don't want to waste a precious moment of nice weather by bringing them in too soon, but I don't want to harm them either. Any advice?

A. As night temperatures begin to fall to 50 degrees, it is important to bring in your house plants. It is best to bring in the plants on a day when temperatures are above 60 degrees. Before bringing them in, spray your plants with an all-purpose insecticide to ensure that you do not bring in any unwanted pests.On the subject of pests one of the simplest ways of treating your indoor plants pests is to put them outside and let natures predators do the work for you. One final point be sure to read your plant labels carefully as many indoor plants cannot tolerate the direct sun.This seems odd for tropicals but it's a fact.

Q. I notice that many people wrap their shrubs over winter. Is this really necessary and, if so, why?

A. Certain shrubs really do benefit from getting wrapped by burlap over winter. Yews and Alberta Spruce, for example, are most susceptible to winter wind burn as well as sun burn. Upright Junipers also benefit from wrappings because they suffer the most from the weight of snow on their upright branches, although netting would also be a good substitute for burlap with these type of trees. In both of these cases, plants should be wrapped in the late fall and unwrapped in the early spring. Incidentally, Rhododendrons and Azaleas are also very susceptible to wind, sun, and snow damage through the winter months. These plants should be covered with an 8" layer of mulch over the roots and then build a shelter with burlap around each plant to keep the wind and sun out. Never use plastic as this will cause sweating in the winter sun out. Never use plastic as this will cause sweating in the winter sun days which will then cause further damage.

Q. What is the most common problem you find when visiting a garden for a consultation for the first time?

A. Oddly enough there are nearly always two problems. One, I have yet to see a garden that does not need the beds soil conditioning. Time slips by so fast, and before you know it your shrubs and trees have been in  four 4, 5 or even 10 years and they have never been fed. Spreading compost around the drip line of shrubs and trees should be an annual event. The second problem is water, particularly around foundations. When I say water I clearly mean the lack of it. Here in the north east rhododendrons are a common foundation planting and yet the poorest of choices as they love water and lots of it. They do not like to stand in water, just have a lot to drink. Many people think that sprinkler systems cure this, but the problem is that as the plants get atller the back side of them get less water.

Q. How they I increase the numbers of their favorite plants inexpensively?

A. One of the easiest and most effective ways is to take root cuttings. Both plants and shrubs may be propagated in this manner.You will need a bag of coarse cut vermiculite, a bottle of "Rootone" (rooting hormone), a container (wallpaper trays work great), and a pair of very sharp scissors or a knife. Place the vermiculite into the container and add water until the vermiculite is moist but not soggy. Select a cutting 3-6" long from a part of the plant that has new growth. Using sharp scissors cut the stem from the main plant one-quarter inch from a leaf node. Remove all flowers and flower buds so that all of the plant's energy will go to root Development instead of flower production. Next, remove the bottom set of leaves so that the foliage won't touch the rooting medium. Dip the cut end into the rooting hormone. Using the end of a pencil, make a small hole in the vermiculite and place the cutting in the hole. Gently press down the vermiculite around the cutting so that it stands upright. Continue in this manner until you have as many cuttings as you need. Not all of the cuttings will root so it is better to have a few more than you plan to use. You can always give the extras to friends. Place the container in a warm area of your house. I've placed my container on the top of the refrigerator and had good results. Check the container daily to make sure the vermiculite remains moist. In approximately 2-4 weeks roots should begin to develop. Be patient! Some plants take longer to root than others. Once the cuttings have developed roots, transplant them into individual containers filled with a soil-less mixture such as Pro-Mix. They can now be moved to a bright location. Avoid placing them in the direct sun. Remember to keep them watered. Within a month they should be ready to transplant out into your garden.

Q. What do I do about the unsightly menace of powdery mildew on my plants?

Oddly enough, it is not harmful, just very ugly. The main victims seem to be giant phlox, lilacs, zinnias, chrysanthemums, and catalpas.

Well, there is a very old-fashioned home remedy that is surprisingly effective and very safe. A simple mixture of three teaspoons of either potassium or sodium bicarbonate of soda plus two and one half tablespoons of any horticultural oil per gallon of water makes a wonderful mix. You can use any oil spray that is recommended for use during the summer.

We are winding down the treatment of this pest now. The best time to treat your flowers is when the first leaves starting to broaden out. This spray treatment should take place about every eight to ten days and is very simple. You can make a batch to use in your pump sprayer, and it will store for limited periods. If you make too much, you can use it next time.